I know what your thinking. Why would I want to know how to get rid of gray hair if its not naturally? Right? Well this topic is very popular and I think we all know why. Nobody really wants gray hair and in the same respect there is no way to prevent getting gray hair or get rid of gray hair, naturally.
I’m sorry if I have just upset you but I would argue with anyone that there is no proven scientific proof of ways to treat, prevent or get rid of gray hair, naturally.
Since I am a cosmetologist though, I can share my secrets to getting rid of your gray hair in the salon. This proven method has worked for me for almost 20 years.
Gray Hair Color
So, you have gray hair color coming in or you have had it for quite some time. You are probably noticing that the gray hair can be a bit unruly. Maybe, you have noticed that the gray hair is standing up on your scalp in certain spots.
Truth be told no matter what your age, ethnicity or background, gray hair does NOT discriminate. As a matter of fact it affects people in many ways and different times in their life as well.
My very best friend was 31 when we first met. She was already about 75% gray. She did not show any other signs of aging and as a matter of fact she takes very good care of herself.
Gray hair is in your genes.
Yep, this is something that has been proven. Everything that determines how much gray hair you have and what age you start going gray comes from your genes.
This doesn’t necessarily mean that you will go gray when your mom did. It is more like rolling the dice of all of your genes and you get what you get. Great, right?
Well truth is there are more products these days to help get rid of those unwanted gray’s than ever before. So, if you’re going to go gray at least now is a good time.
Remove Gray Hair
In the salon it has always seemed odd to me that other hairstylist don’t know how to remove gray hair. Or better that they don’t know how to cover the gray hair and give it the coverage it needs to last.
A well round hairstylist should be able to cover your gray hair and recommend products, as well.
For those of you who don’t have a hairstylist that can do this, here is the secret to removing gray hair color. I don’t recommend trying this at home but if you are inclined to do so then I will give you some **tips at the end of this article.**
Most of you already know that your gray hair is stubborn. It doesn’t hold anything well like color, style, and curls. Sound familiar?
This is because the cuticle layer of the hair is so tight, for lack of a better term. To get your hair to, accept and hold onto color, you have to get the cuticle layer to open up a little and then to close and hold onto the color therefor not releasing the color that was just put on. Make sense?
I try to not get to technical with things because quite honestly, it’s boring. 🙂
Proper Steps To Mixing Up Color
When mixing up color for resistant gray hair the ratios change. This is due to the hair being stubborn like we just discussed.
For instance, on a normal color re-touch service the color ratios look something like this:
2 oz. Of color to 2.oz of peroxide – or equal parts.
This is what the ratio looks like when mixing color to cover gray hair:
2 oz. Of color to 1oz. Of peroxide.
You want the color to be thicker than it would normally be when mixing for a regular color service. You also want to make sure to use 20 volume developer, not higher and not lower.
Some people think because color can sometimes fade faster on gray hair that you should only use 10 volume developer. This way the cuticle layer of the hair doesn’t open very much and the color only deposits into the hair. NOT
This theory is 100% false. I’ve tried it and disagree whole heartedly. So do my clients so just ask them. LOL
You want to make sure you use a 20 volume on the hair even if you only want to deposit color. This allows the color to actually penetrate the cuticle layer of the hair so that the color will last.
Gray Hair Products
There are cleansing products specifically for gray hair but you want to make sure you treat the biggest problem or issue first. I wrote about this in another article about shampoo for dry hair, you can read that here.
In other words, if you color your hair you need to treat that first and foremost. Any kind of chemical service that is done to your hair supersedes the other symptoms that you would like to treat. For example: Curly, fine, volume, gray and anything else you have in mind.
For your cleansing shampoo and moisturizing conditioner, I recommend Pureology, Hydrate shampoo and conditioner. It works great on color treated hair. There is a patent formula that helps extend the life of your color. It also has moisturizing agents that will tone down the wildness in your stubborn gray hairs.
It is also recommended that if you have all gray or silver hair that you use a purple shampoo once a week. This will help any yellow tinge stay out of your beautiful gray tones.
Gray hair color
Now that we covered cleansing products for gray hair, lets talk about color products.
I gave you my formula for mixing up gray hair color but what about colors that work the best?
Like I mentioned, I don’t recommend doing your own color. However, life happens and not everyone can afford going to the salon every 4-6 weeks. Yet, we all still deserve to look and feel our best, so here is a little help when purchasing color to cover your gray hair.
**Color Tip Here**
Gray hair has no pigment in it. If you want to completely cover your gray hair you have to imagine putting all the pigment that is missing back in.
Whatever your color level is from 1-10, 1 being black and 10 being blonde. I recommend, using a level that is just a little darker than your natural color.
For example, most people are a level 6 natural ash color. If you were to use a level 6 ash on your hair, you would get little to no coverage, of your gray hair. But, if you use a 5N, N is for natural, and some other color (I’ll tell you later) then you will deposit more pigment in the hair and get a broader spectrum of color coverage on your gray hair.
When I say broader spectrum of color, imagine with me for just a minute. You can color your hair with an ash color or just a basic neutral color but you will only achieve a certain level on the rainbow that is dull and flat.
Then, picture this, Jennifer Aniston walks into the room. She shakes her beautiful hair and it sparkles and shines. (no this is not an infomercial) 🙂
Why do you think her hair sparkle and shines?
I’ll tell you why, because it has gold in it. Ding, Ding, Ding!!
Most people don’t even like to say the word gold when it is in the same sentence as their hair. I know, I have been a cosmetologist for way too long. This has to be the most dreaded color or word when referring to color.
***** News Flash****
I have yet another secret to share with you. When your hairstylist goes into the back to mix your color, she is secretly adding gold to ensure your hair doesn’t turn green. 😉
Ugh! That feels so good to let out. Its like a well-known secret just eating me alive for all of these years. LOL
Ladies, it is true, gold is the key to achieving a beautiful full spectrum color that shines sparkles and looks RICH! That is a word often referred to, by a cosmetologist, when describing the perfect color.
Here it is with no further a due. If you want the perfect neutral, RICH, shiny color when covering your gray, here is my favorite formula.
1.5 oz. Of your natural shade or a shade darker, 5N. Then, .05 oz. Of 5G (gold) .05R (red). Or 1 5N + 1/4 5G + 1/4 5R + 1 oz. 20 vol. developer. (you can thank me later) 🙂
Yes, RED, remember I told you that if you want to truly cover the gray you have to add in all the pigment. Think about all the colors in the rainbow when you think about adding the pigment.
You have, blue, red, orange, yellow and green; right? If you truly want a rich color that embodies this you have to add a little gold and a little red.
In conclusion, I have given you my secret formula to covering gray hair. You have the mixing ratios and hopefully, you get the idea of what colors you will need to get a nice rich color.
If you are doing your hair at home you might be wondering where on earth you are going to find these colors. Well, I know where I live you can go to a Sally’s Beauty Supply and get these colors. They are not professional colors but they are better than box color.
Of course, it is always my first recommendation to go to the salon and see a hairstylist. 🙂
Have you tried coloring your gray hair color? What has or hasn’t worked for you? Let me know in the comments below.